spa

Skiing in SK: Hitting the Olympic Slopes of Yong Pyong

(A copy of this post is also available on Chincha?!)

The homogeneity of South Korea is a topic under constant discussion amongst foreigners and natives alike, as Korea is one of the most racially homogenous countries in the world. As waygookin, we feel the effects of this statistic day in and day out, at work, on the subway, in the grocery store, or on our way to Itaewon. But if you want to forget about your differences in appearance, language, and culture, I recently discovered that skiing is one of the best ways to accomplish this! Skiing and snowboarding is incredibly popular in Korea—although the selection of high mountains and challenging trails is limited—and is pretty much identical to the skiing experiences I’ve had in the USA. But more importantly, when every person is bundled up from head to toe in layers of neon sweaters, long underwear and snow pants, nobody can really detect that you are a foreigner up on the mountain.

This past weekend, I visited the Yong Pyong Ski Resort located in Pyeongchang, Gangwan-do, the northeastern province of South Korea. One of Korea’s biggest ski resorts, the mountain is 700m (2,296ft) high and 200km (124mi) from Seoul, the perfect amount for an easy weekend getaway. Travelling with a tour group geared towards foreigners (read: English teachers) called “WINK: When In Korea,” we were able to get discounted lift tickets and ski rentals, totaling ₩56,000 (from ₩63,000), and ski jacket and pants rentals were available for ₩25,000. For roundtrip bus tickets from a central location in Seoul, hearty dinner, and 2 nights in a comfortable hostel, WINK charges ₩85,000. In total, for 1½ days of skiing (waking up at 7am Sunday morning just didn’t feel appealing at the time), rented skis and ski pants, room and board, transportation, new ski gloves, and lots of hot chocolate, I spent about ₩250,000; a reasonable price for a fantastic weekend trip. WINK was a good group to travel with overall, and you can find more information about their company on Facebook.

As I mentioned earlier, if you happen to be an expert skier, you will be disappointed by the lack of moguls, challenging trails, and off-trail skiing on the slopes at Yong Pyong (and, from what I understand, every other mountain in the country). But, if you are looking to improve your skiing ego—your “ski-go” if you will—South Korea is certainly the place to do it. The trails labeled as black diamonds at Yong Pyong would definitely be considered greens in the resorts I’ve visited in Colorado, Wyoming, and Utah. The most difficult aspect was attempting to navigate the extremely icy conditions, which were probably a result of the artificial snow that covered the mountains.

As a skier, I was also plagued by the constant annoyance of snowboarders and even worse, beginner snowboarders, who lacked any sense of mountain etiquette. Taking massive turns across the entire width of the trail, constantly falling and sitting on their bums for extended periods of time, and even taking cigarette breaks with their friends in the middle of the skiing area—I felt like a grumpy old man crashing a teenage house party. I’m actually convinced that many of these newbie snowboarders have taken on this hobby in order to take advantage of the bold, chromatic Korean fashion sense that has transcended climates and altitudes.

But, despite these minor annoyances, the Korean skiing experience is not one to miss out on. After all, don’t you want to be able to say you’ve skied on trails that will be used in the 2018 Winter Olympics? Many trails in Yong Pyong will be utilized for the skiing events. As a foreigner, there are myriad companies catering to your price range and logistical needs, take advantage of them while you can.

Hike, Eat, Bathe, Blog. Repeat.

As you have probably gleaned from past blog posts, Koreans pride themselves on many things, and one of them is the beauty of autumn. You might be thinking, “Uh, yea? Fall is pretty everywhere…” Well, I am here to objectively state that autumn is actually more beautiful here than anywhere else I have ever visited. That’s right. The topography of this peninsula is outstanding, with mountain ranges and valleys galore (I live in a valley, it’sgorgeous.), and when the fall colors begin to shine, the hills are golden and are most definitely alive with the sound of music (maybe even K-pop).

We went to a city called Sunchang, located in this province, Jeollabuk.

With the arrival of autumn comes the mass migration of ajummas and ajashis (middle-aged women and men) to the mountains each weekend for hiking. Myself and some friends decided to see what the hype was all about, and headed south to Sunchang in Jeollabuk-do for some hikeage. We went with a tour group geared towards younger ex-pats (English teachers, naturally) called Adventure Korea, who were absolutely fantastic leaders. The hike up Mt. Gangcheon was beautiful and at times difficult, and reaching the top was a truly glorious feeling. In total it was about a 5 hour hike, and afterwards they took us to a hot spring jimjilbang at the base! (My favorite.) It was in a 5-star hotel, and we only had to pay 7,500 won ($7.50) to enter the spa. God I love this country. I must hike more before the season ends. Okay, time for me to stop rambling and show you the pictures.

These are "wishing rocks" - everyone makes a little mountain of rocks before hiking for hood luck. There were hundreds.

Building my wishing rocks!

 

Statue of a woman giving birth, with an immature hiker.

Made it to the top!

 

The next day, Adventure Korea took us to the Gochujang Festival (chili pepper paste) which was a wonderful, unique, learning experience…to say the very least. As foreigners, we were literally treated like VIP’s at the event. All the media that was there took our pictures, they let us stand in line first to eat the bibimbap, and they even asked 2 members of our group to stand on stage with the festival officials! So insane. They are very intent on sharing Korean culture with the world, espeically through food, so I think they were just estatic to have us at the festival. It felt a little strange…but hey, I’m not turning down free food. We attended a cooking class with a crazy Korean announcer, pounded on rice dough with huge wooden hammers, ate tons and TONS of free food, and last but definitely not least, got to help stir the world’s largest bibimbap!!!!!

Bibimbap!!!

Fermenting pots. And friends.

My soybean paste wish.

Some of the ladies dancing in the festival.

Bibimbap is one of my favorite Korean dishes. It comes in a heated bowl and is filled with a medley of ingredients; cabbage, peppers, tofu, spices, mushrooms, raw egg. You then stir it up quickly in the heated bowl. It is savory and delicious, and this region is known for its bibimbap…basically we were in bibimbap heaven. Apparently our names are going to be in the Guinness Book of World Records…so keep your eyes peeled for that one, folks.

It was nice to break away from the routines we’ve all established here and see what’s happening in other parts of the country.

찜질방 즐거움 – Jimjilbang Joy

Koreans are especially skilled at several very important things. Incorporating chili paste into just about every dish, impeccable study skills, technological innovation, advertising plastic surgery…the list goes on. Last weekend, I had the great pleasure of discovering yet another Korean practice, the 찜질방 or jimjilbang – the Korea bathhouse or spa. There are tons of jimjilbangs all over Seoul and Korea, and people use them regularly to relax and rejuvenate. Spa culture is an important Korean tradition, and I’m definitely into traditions like this.

Sleeping

Jimjilbangs have overnight sleeping facilities, which only cost between 8,000 and 12,000 won ($8-$12), so lots of tourists and foreigners like me use them as a means of cheaply spending the night in Seoul. And by “sleeping facilities,” I don’t exactly mean 5-star hotel accommodations. Basically, there is a large room and everyone simply finds a spot on the floor to sleep. If you’re lucky, you might score a mat. But, these rooms vary from spa to spa: some have separate quieter rooms or scented rooms, it really depends on where you go. Some jimjilbangs even offer human-sized cubby holes with adjustable heaters—quite cozy indeed—but patrons are still left sleeping on hard surfaces. Koreans don’t seem to value sleep the way that westerners do. One jimjilbang I stayed at, the lights in the room were on, a TV blaring, and people sat around playing cards – all in the same room of about 75 sleeping people. Upon arrival, each person is given a key, shorts, and a t-shirt. After dropping off your shoes in a locker, you will head up to the locker room (men and women are segregated, naturally). We changed, left our clothing and bags in lockers, and found spots in the sleeping room. Because the floors are heated, it was actually not too difficult to fall pass out for a few hours. (Maybe also because it was 5am and we had been out dancing for the last 7 hours.)

Here’s an example of the sleeping room of a jimjilbang. Sometimes they are more dimly lit than this one, but I think this is pretty standard!

Obviously couldn’t bring my camera into a room full of naked women. But here’s a picture of the spa we went to in Itaewon.

Bathing

After waking up in the morning, my friend and I decided to partake in the spa’s services. We ventured into the bathing room, and proceeded to spend the next few hours soaking in baths of differing temperatures with about 30 other naked Korean ladies. There were boiling hot baths, peppermint and rooibos flavored baths (we literally were soaking in a bath of tea!), and ice-cold baths as well. Oh, and I should add that the fountains in the women’s bathing room at Itaewon Land are literally shaped like penises. I am not joking…they aren’t simply phallic, they are actual penises. There are standing showers and “sitting showers,” where female friends and relatives diligently scrub one another with sponges, available for purchase just outside. You’re expected to shower before entering the tubs, but I think the communal scrubbing is an optional practice.

Scrubbing

We then decided to splurge and indulge in a Korean scrub for 20,000 won ($20), saying goodbye to a lovely layer of dead skin. (I’ve heard that many Koreans think that westerners smell like dead skin. Now I know why.) After the vicious scrubbing was complete, I felt like a new person. The spas all offer dozens of services like this, from massages to pedicures to eyebrow threading. All of the jimjilbangs I’ve visited also have a food court, PC rooms, and sometimes norebang—the price is right and the options are endless.  Koreans definitely know what’s up in the spa department. Highly recommended experience!

Where to Go

I recommend Dragon Hill Spa in Yongsan and Itaewon Land in Itaewon. (IL’s website is only in Korean or Japanese, but this link will take you to a helpful website!)